San Martin SN0116 Vintage GMT Review

by | Aug 29, 2024 | 0 comments

Hello everyone, welcome back! It’s George here, and today, we’re diving deep into the San Martin SN0116-G GMT. This is one of their latest GMT models, featuring the Seiko NH34 movement, all wrapped in a nice little package. Let’s see if it’s really worth the hype.

Unboxing the San Martin SN0116-G GMT

Starting with the unboxing, the San Martin SN0116-G arrives in a compact green faux leather travel box. Now, this is more than just packaging – it’s actually a well-made, functional travel case. If you’re someone who often takes your watches on the go, this case is a perfect companion. The interior is well-padded, ensuring that your watch stays protected during transit. It’s these little touches that make the experience of owning a San Martin feel a bit more special compared to your average Aliexpress watch. It really sets the tone for what’s inside.

San Martin SN0116 Vintage GMT Review

First Impressions and Pricing

When you first lay eyes on the SN0116-G, it’s clear that San Martin has put considerable effort into making this watch look and feel premium. The black and brown bezel on my version, which is often referred to as the “Root Beer” colorway, is what I’d describe as discreetly striking. It contrasts beautifully with the matte black dial, creating a vintage yet modern aesthetic.

There’s also a Pepsi version with a blue and red bezel insert, which is admittedly flashier, but I opted for the more muted colorway. By the way, the Root Beer combo is my favorite. There’s also a distressed version, which was the one that originally caught my eye. I have to admit, it looks very promising with its bolder vintage and tropic feel, and I think it’s very well executed. But when I was adding the watch to my basket, I got cold feet and went for this safer dial variant because it pairs with more outfits. If you’re braver than I am and drawn to the vintage aesthetics, I’d highly encourage you to consider the distressed option as it’s way more unique. And by the way, both versions – distressed and non-distressed – come in two variants: the Root Beer one with the black and brown bezel, and the Pepsi one with the blue and red bezel.

San Martin has really nailed the proportions here. At 39.5mm in diameter, the watch feels perfectly balanced on the wrist – not too large and not too small, just right. The colorway is versatile, making it a great option whether you’re dressing up or down. As for pricing, it’s currently listed at $316. It might seem a bit steep for a watch powered by the Seiko NH34 movement, but as you know, San Martin is the premium Aliexpress brand, if you will, so they always charge a bit extra for the level of finishing and quality. That being said, the watch isn’t perfect – there are a couple of areas where it falls short, and I’ll cover those in-depth, so keep reading!

Dimensions

The San Martin SN0116-G is true to its vintage looks with offering an overall compact wearing experience.

The dimensions are as follows:

  • Diameter: 39.5 mm
  • Height: 12.5 mm
  • Lug to lug: 46.5 mm
  • Lug width: 20 mm
  • Weight: 134 grams

The San Martin measures 39.5mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug distance of 46.5mm and a thickness of 12.5mm, making it relatively slim for a GMT watch. The 20mm lug width is standard, allowing for easy strap changes if you like to customize your watches. Weighing in at 134 grams, the watch has a substantial feel without being overly heavy, ensuring it’s comfortable for all-day wear.

Wearability

As mentioned earlier, the dimensions are one of the watch’s strongest points. It’s in the Goldilocks range – just under 40mm in diameter, 12.5mm thickness, and a 20mm lug width. The wearing experience is excellent. It will fit any wrist from 5.5 inches all the way up to 8 inches without any issue. It’s slim and compact, and despite the straight lugs, it wears smaller, which is great news for people with smaller wrists like mine. Here are some wrist shots on my 6.75 inch or 17 cm wrist:

San Martin SN0116 Vintage GMT Review

Dial and Design

The dial of the SN0116-G is where San Martin really shows off their design chops. The matte black dial is paired with a white outer ring featuring minute markers, creating a clean and readable face with nice contrast. The black dial pops thanks to the white outer ring. The applied hour markers are polished on the sides with a gilded finish, giving them a subtle shine that adds to the overall vintage aesthetic of the watch. The hour markers are generously filled with lume, ensuring visibility in low-light conditions.

San Martin SN0116 Vintage GMT Review

The hands are simple yet effective. The hour and minute hands are filled with lume, while the GMT hand has a red tip, which adds a nice pop of color and matches the brown accents on the bezel. The seconds hand, however, lacks lume, which might be a slight drawback for some, but the red tip still helps it stand out. The date window is at the 6 o’clock position, which is a smart design choice that maintains the symmetry of the dial. Personally, I always prefer date windows at 6 o’clock because I’m a huge proponent of symmetry in design. Also, you’ll be happy to see that the date wheel is color-matched to the dial, which is a nice touch that not all brands at this price point – or even at a lot higher – bother with.

Case and Build Quality

Now, let’s talk about the case. The 39.5mm stainless steel case is superbly finished, with brushed surfaces on the top and sides, and polished chamfered edges that add a bit of visual interest. The case has a slim profile, which is particularly impressive for a GMT watch, and this makes it comfortable for daily wear, even under a shirt cuff. The double-domed sapphire crystal adds another vintage design cue.

San Martin SN0116 Vintage GMT Review

The bezel is a 24-click bidirectional aluminum insert, faithful to the vintage watch aesthetics, and it feels solid with no play whatsoever, which is great to see. It really bothers me when GMT or diver bezels are loose and have a lot of play – they make the watch feel cheaper.

The “Root Beer” bezel, with its black and brown color scheme, is both distinctive and versatile. The gilted 24-hour markers on the bezel are crisply printed, and the overall bezel action is smooth and satisfying. The lugs are straight, which usually is something I don’t like as they expand the lug-to-lug length, but in this case, due to the small diameter and slight curvature, the watch wears well. And let’s not forget, straight lugs are a key characteristic of watches from the ’60s and ’70s. They are also drilled, making it easy to swap out the bracelet or strap – a feature that’s always appreciated by enthusiasts. The screw-down caseback is solid and unmarked, keeping the focus on the watch’s front and sides. The screw-down crown at 3 o’clock is engraved with San Martin’s hexagon logo and helps achieve the watch’s claimed 100-meter water resistance rating.

San Martin SN0116 Vintage GMT Review

Movement

Powering the SN0116-G is the Seiko NH34 GMT movement. This automatic movement is a reliable workhorse, featuring 24 jewels and operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz). It has a power reserve of about 41 hours, which is standard for movements in this range. The NH34 is known for its durability, and its projected accuracy is within -20 to +40 seconds per day. While it’s not a high-beat movement, it’s dependable and well-suited to a GMT watch, especially at this price point. The GMT function, while being a “caller” GMT rather than a “flyer,” is still highly useful for tracking an additional time zone, particularly for those who travel frequently or want to keep track of a second timezone in general.

Movement Specifications:

  • Mode: SEIKO NH34 GMT
  • Type: Mechanical automatic
  • Beat rate: 21,600 beats per hour / 3 Hz
  • Jewels: 24
  • Power reserve: 41 hours
  • Accuracy: -20 to 40+ sec/day

Bracelet and Clasp

The SN0116-G comes fitted with a beads-of-rice bracelet, which stays true to its vintage design inspiration and matches the overall aesthetic really well. However, the bracelet is an area that could use some more love. The center links are polished, while the outer links are brushed with polished sides. This contrast adds depth to the bracelet’s appearance, making it look more premium than it is. However, as mentioned, there are a few drawbacks – the bracelet is hollow, which detracts from the overall feel, and the inner edges can be a bit sharp. I can definitely feel them digging into my arm when I wear it in certain positions, especially when I put it on or take it off – the sides are scraping my skin. It could definitely use some sanding down. San Martin has cut some corners here, and to be honest, for its over $300 price tag, I expected better.

San Martin SN0116 Vintage GMT Review

That being said, the bracelet kinda makes up for it with the inclusion of a quick-adjust clasp that allows for on-the-fly sizing adjustments without the need for tools. There’s a small button you can press to resize the bracelet. This feature is particularly useful in warmer weather when your wrist might expand slightly.

San Martin SN0116 Vintage GMT Review

Lume Performance

When it comes to lume, the SN0116-G is a bit of a mixed bag. The watch uses BGW-X1 Super-LumiNova, which is applied to the hands and hour markers. While the lume is effective, it’s not the brightest or longest-lasting compared to other watches in this price bracket, or even a lot cheaper. I have watches from Addiesdive for a third of the price, and they have better lume.

So, if you’re someone who appreciates a good lume application and often finds yourself in situations where you need visibility in low-light environments, the San Martin might not be the best choice. It’s sufficient for quick glances in low light, but don’t expect it to hold up for more than an hour, let alone the whole night.

Final Thoughts

To wrap things up, the San Martin SN0116-G is an impressive piece, particularly for those, like myself, who appreciate vintage-inspired designs with modern functionality. Its dimensions are well-considered, making it a versatile option for a variety of wrist sizes. While the NH34 movement is fairly standard, the overall execution of the watch – from the case finishing to the thoughtful dial design – makes it feel like more than the sum of its parts.

Yes, there are a few minor shortcomings, such as the lume and the sharp edges on the bracelet, but these are far outweighed by the watch’s strengths. At $316, you’re getting a lot of watch for your money, especially if you value both form and function. If you’re in the market for a GMT watch that won’t break the bank but still offers a touch of luxury, the SN0116-G is definitely worth considering. However, I would most likely wait for it to go on sale, or if you have enough coupons, you should grab it at a lower price. I think a fair price for it is around $250. $300 is pushing it a bit.

Alright, that’s it for this review. If you enjoyed reading this, please give it a thumbs up, leave a comment, and don’t forget to subscribe for more watch reviews. Thanks for reading, and I’ll see you in the next one!


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