The latest GMT model by Specht & Söhne is a watch that deserves a closer look, particularly for those of us who appreciate vintage aesthetics and functional designs. Taking direct inspiration from the iconic SEIKO 6117 Navigator Timer, a legendary 1960s travel watch, this affordable homage combines retro appeal with practicality. As a fan of classic GMT designs, I was intrigued to see how Specht & Söhne would capture the essence of this SEIKO classic at a budget-friendly price. Let’s dive into the details.
Quick History: SEIKO 6117 Navigator Timer and Its Reissue
First, a bit of background on the SEIKO 6117 Navigator Timer. Originally launched in the late 1960s, this watch was made for serious travel and exploration, unlike many of today’s “desk divers.” Featuring a 24-hour rotating bezel, a clear dial, and a slim profile, it was a practical choice for globetrotters. SEIKO recently reintroduced it in their Prospex line, adding modern materials while preserving the original look.
The Specht & Söhne GMT homage channels that same vintage appeal, and although it’s not an exact replica, it captures the character of the 6117 in a way that feels both fresh and respectful. For fans of the 6117, this watch is a bit of a hidden gem—especially if you don’t mind a few modern tweaks.
Unboxing and First Impressions
Out of the box, the Specht & Söhne GMT keeps things simple, arriving in a compact white cardboard box with a microfiber cloth and guarantee card. This no-frills approach is in line with the brand’s budget positioning. But when I held the watch for the first time, I could feel its solid construction right away—a bit heavier than I anticipated, which honestly was a pleasant surprise for the price. It felt substantial and well-crafted, hinting that Specht & Söhne put care into the details.
Brand Background: Specht & Söhne
While still relatively new, Specht & Söhne has been gaining traction on AliExpress, thanks to a solid lineup of homage pieces. They’ve built a reputation for offering budget-friendly alternatives to high-end models, and their lineup features homages to classics like the Patek Philippe Aquanaut and the Vacheron Constantin 222.
In my experience, Specht & Söhne’s models, most of which are priced under $150, serve as an affordable entry point into quality homage watches without the risk of overspending. This GMT model, available for under $90, feels like a great pick for those looking to explore the watch hobby without a major investment.
Design Variants and Pricing
The Specht & Söhne GMT comes in several variations, including different dial colors like black, blue, gray, and a more striking red. There’s also a three-hand version with the Seiko NH35 movement, but the NH34-powered GMT model, with its fourth hand, offers an additional layer of functionality. For under $90, getting a stainless steel watch with a GMT function and decent finishing is quite impressive. It’s the kind of value that makes you feel like you’re getting a watch worth much more than the price tag.
Dimensions and Wearability
The watch is advertised as 38mm, but it actually measures slightly larger at 39mm. The 12.7mm height, including the domed crystal, is reasonable, and with a 20mm lug width, it sits comfortably on wrists of various sizes. I have a smaller wrist, and this watch felt just right—no awkward overhang or bulk. If you’re someone who prefers a more compact, vintage-style piece, this GMT will likely hit the mark.
Dial and Design
I opted for the blue dial variant, which initially looked a bit muted. But it’s grown on me—the understated shade gives it versatility, and the dial transitions beautifully in different lighting, going from near black to a vibrant blue under sunlight. The applied hour markers with mirror finishing add a nice touch of elegance. I was also impressed by the Super-LumiNova lume on the markers and hands, which is surprisingly strong for a watch in this price bracket.
The design is classic and easy to read, with a red GMT hand for tracking a second time zone and a date window at 3 o’clock. There’s something satisfying about how well Specht & Söhne managed to balance simplicity with functionality here. It’s one of those watches that feels well thought out and cohesive, with no elements that feel out of place or overdone.
Case and Build Quality
The case is a solidly constructed 39mm stainless steel body with polished sides and brushed surfaces on the top. The unidirectional 24-hour bezel, though a bit unusual for a GMT, is smooth and well-aligned, with a lumed pip at the 12 o’clock position. Specht & Söhne may have overlooked the bidirectional bezel typically found on GMTs, but for a budget homage, this isn’t a deal-breaker—especially considering the satisfying tactile feedback the bezel offers.
The crown is located at 4 o’clock, adding a unique touch, and it’s recessed, making it less prone to accidental adjustments. The domed sapphire crystal is another nice feature, adding vintage charm to the watch with a slight distortion at certain angles.
Movement
Powering this GMT is Seiko’s NH34 automatic movement, a modification of the NH35 with an added GMT hand. With 24 jewels, a 41-hour power reserve, and a 21,600-beat rate, it delivers reliable accuracy. I appreciate that the GMT hand adjusts independently, making it a “caller GMT”—useful for tracking a second time zone without the added complexity of a “true GMT.”
Bracelet and Clasp
The stainless steel bracelet has a brushed five-row design that matches the vintage feel of the watch. However, it lacks micro-adjustments due to the butterfly clasp, which can make getting the perfect fit a bit challenging. I found the edges a bit sharp on the underside, but for under $90, it’s a minor trade-off. Besides, if you’re like me, you may prefer swapping in a leather strap or NATO band for a more tailored look.
Lume
Despite its budget-friendly price, the Specht & Söhne GMT’s lume is surprisingly good. The hour, minute, and GMT hands, along with the bezel pip, all feature bright lume, making the watch readable in low-light conditions. The longevity isn’t going to rival high-end models, but it’s one of the best at this price point.
Final Thoughts
The Specht & Söhne GMT impresses as a well-executed homage to the SEIKO 6117 Navigator Timer. With vintage-inspired styling, reliable Seiko movement, and an affordable price, it’s an attractive choice for collectors and newcomers alike. It does have a few quirks, particularly the unidirectional bezel and the sharp edges on the bracelet, but these are forgivable given the overall quality and value.
At the end of the day, this GMT is a fun, budget-friendly option that delivers a lot of watch for the money. If you’re on the lookout for an affordable GMT with classic charm, the Specht & Söhne GMT may just be the hidden gem you’ve been searching for.
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